Overview: What makes the perfect cheesecake? Milk Street heads into the kitchen to find out! Rose Hattabaugh leads the way with Basque Cheesecake, a dessert known for its “burnt” surface and creamy-smooth center. Christopher Kimball then puts cream cheese on the sidelines with Ricotta-Semolina Cheesecake. Plus, we investigate how the color of bakeware affects a recipe and make homemade crème fraîche.